The Beginning
It all started when my wife told me to dream big. “Dream Big?” I said, “Do you really mean that? Or are you just saying that?” "No, I mean it," she says. “Because if you’re going to tell me to dream big, I’m gonna do it!” A year later, I quit my job. Today I am sitting aboard a ferry on the Alaska Marine Highway on my way to Bellingham, WA. I wanted to keep a journal of my trip, and keep my friends apprised of my journey. So the purpose of this blog is to write about my adventures, and hopefully provide links to some of the races I’ve run and places I’ve been, so if you like what you see, go do it, but maybe not quit your job.
June 18-28, 2018 - Alaska
Caravanning to Whittier from Anchorage with Candace was a lot of fun. Going through the tunnel in Whittier (link to website eventually) is an adventure in itself. We arrive with plenty of time to spare and eat pizza that Candace bought in Girdwood while I was pumping gas. Our goodbye was as romantic as you get, smooching through the metal fence after I parked my truck in the assigned lane.
The first stop from the ferry was a brief one, just under 2 hours in Yakutat, AK. I have never been there and hopped off the ferry for a quick 4 mile jog.
I met some interesting people on the journey so far. Some people use the ferry as a cruise ship, others like myself are using it for transportation. After a day and a half travel, we arrive in the port of Juneau on a sunny, rare, 80 degree day. After making my way to the Mendenhall Campground, I set up my home for the next 6 days. Wanting to get up a tall mountain on this clear day, I opt to get my provisions from the grocery store instead and take a trail run on my old reliable, the Herbert glacier trail. I run this trail every time I’m in Juneau, and when I do I am reminded why I keep coming back. Tall spruce trees that shade the trail and make me feel like I was running in the dark in the early evening. I was surprised that it does get dark in Juneau about midnight on the solstice, unlike our midnight sun in Anchorage.
The following days were filled with hiking near the campground… and my long run.
I was able to string together 3 trail runs to make an 18 miler. I found another winner of a trail, Windfall Lakes. I felt like I was in an enchanted forest with more tall, mossy trees filled with greenery in between.
At the end a beautiful cabin on the lake, complete with a canoe. I took a little tumble on the boardwalk on the jog out and got discouraged, but after eating lunch, I drove 30 minutes to downtown Juneau for my next 7 miles on the Perseverance trail, a classic. This trail starts in Juneau above town and driving there is an adventure on its own, on two way streets that only fit one car, on hills so tall I can’t see over my dashboard.
Candace surprised me and flew to Juneau for the weekend! We booked an all day boat ride down the Tracy Arm. I have never seen so many harbor seals in one place before. They chatter with each other loudly, and we are given the opportunity to sit and listen, watching the glacier, for over an hour.
More hiking, the Auke Nu trail, brings us to the John Muir cabin, with a spiral staircase inside and upstairs bedrooms! Most of the trail is planked over muskeg meadows.
Then another goodbye to Candace until I arrive in Missoula, Montana.
Last day in Juneau spent hiking the Mount Juneau trail, Wow! One of those hikes that you start in a t -shirt and end up in a hat and gloves at the summit! I hiked down with a new friend, Kathy, who was in Juneau for a yoga retreat. Our easy conversation made the trek down go by quickly and less dangerous, as there were some sketchy snow patches and creeks to cross.
After being awake for 23 hours, I board the ferry for a 3:15 am departure time. After securing a prime spot on the solarium, we arrive in Sitka the next afternoon.
A bus was waiting for us at the dock, and for $10, we got a round trip ride into town, and were able to spend about 2 hours there. This gave me enough time, walking briskly, to make it to Sitka National Historical Park, one of my favorite places in Sitka. I visited in 2012 but don’t remember the visitor center being so amazing. You could easily spend an hour there reading about Alaska Native culture and heritage, it was lovely. A short walk on the totem trail loop and I’m back on the boat.
In the early morning hours of 0200 and 0600, the ferry makes a quick stop in Petersburg and Wrangell. I slept through Petersburg, and was told that it is dangerous to get off in Wrangell, as we only have about 15 minutes or so on port. From the ferry, the town looks substantial. Next port, Ketchikan. With a little under 5 hours docked, and sore quads from the days before, I secured my running gear from my truck and set out the 2.5 miles to town. Three cruise ships were docked that day, so downtown was busy. Last time I took the ferry to Ketchikan in 2012, I grabbed my bike out of the truck and rode to town. I think the town has grown since, the sidewalks bustling with locals and tourists alike. I ran past downtown on the local coastal trail to get some miles in, and as I run back to the ferry, a sense of accomplishment overwhelms me. I walk the yellow line back onto the boat, sweat stinging my eyes, beaming a smile as the Rocky song is playing in my head, 11 miles done. Our next stop won’t be until Bellingham, another 40 hours journey.
Stats:
Miles on AK Marine Highway- ~1800
Miles run-49
Races- Only fools run at Midnight, downtown Juneau, 5K, race start 11pm.
Miles hiked-22
Hardest Hike- Mt. Juneau, 6 miles roundtrip, 3500 ft elevation gain
Wildlife spotted- Mountain goats, humpback whale, killer whales, stellar sea lions, harbor seals, oyster catchers, ptarmigans, blue heron, beavers, marmot, bald eagles
Best camp meal- “cowboy dinner”- chicken, potato, red bell pepper, fresh mushrooms, onions, garlic, spices- wrap in aluminum foil and place on fire grate X 1 hour.
Sunset- ~11:00 pm in Juneau
Days camped- 6
Days on ferry- 5
Showers- 5
Mosquito bites- countless