Missoula and Glacier National Park (7/12/18-7/22/18)
I’ve been in Montana now for 13 days, this state is as rugged as it gets. I picture the olden days of a simpler life when I look upon the landscape. As an Alaskan, I always think my state is the best, but the landscape here is as good as it gets.
I am so very lucky to have my friend Kathy who lives in Missoula. After sleeping outside for 23 days straight, I will be sleeping in the most comfortable bed ever! I took my time driving to Missoula from Yellowstone, and found myself a little sleepy behind the wheel. I noticed some signs for Chico hot springs on the highway and remembered hearing a tour guide informing guests about this place. I stopped and soaked in this fabulous natural pool and refreshed myself for the long drive. I had also seen signs for the Old Prison Museum on my drive to Yellowstone and was curious to visit this place. I found myself with some extra time and stopped in the town of Deer Lodge to tour the Prison. I spent 2 hours there, but I could have stayed longer!
This prison was opened until 1978 and the conditions were deplorable. This was a self guided tour, and I read as much as I could. Several inmates were hung on the property, and they also had the galloping gallows stored in the old theatre. I thought that I hear screaming there, and shrugged it off as a bird. When I talked to the host, she replied “Yeah, they’ve been really active lately”. I learned that the place was haunted! I was wondering why I was scared walking in certain areas, like the tunnel. I felt like I was going to be pushed into a cell and locked in, my imagination running wild.
When I arrived to Missoula, I was greeted with a delicious homemade meal. I have become deficient in my vegetable intake, and it felt good to get some greens. This was my first time eating garlic scapes, and they quickly became my new favorite.
That Saturday, Kathy and I picked up Candace at the airport, hit the Farmers market and went to the river to float. I did not grow up near the water, so this was my first time. What a treat! We had a cooler full of libations and snacks, floated and relaxed.
The next day, we had an early start. Kathy and our new friend Stacey were running the half marathon, while I ran the full. My life goal is to complete a marathon in every state, and Montana would make state #17. I was concerned about the heat and elevation (3500 feet), but I figured I acclimated well in Yellowstone. I was also worried about all the hiking I did, recalling what I read about the marathon taper early in my marathon journey, “Don’t go out and do all the hiking you missed while training, it is time to rest”. Despite that, I completed the marathon in just under 5 hours, that fastest of my last 5!!
The next day, we hiked to a hot spring to recover!
Candace and I were celebrating our 2 year wedding anniversary that weekend, so we rented an airbnb near Missoula called “the tiny A-frame”. This structure lived up to its name and we loved it!! One of the walls can be cranked up with a rope, to provide a larger living space. We did sleep with the wall closed though, as we didn’t want to wake up with a bear sitting next to our bed. The ingenious builders used a home depot bucket for the shower head and the piping heated the water as it made its way down the hill. Our hosts even listed the best times to rinse with the most comfortable water temperature. Candace was the brave one and showered in the morning, a suboptimal time, but she loved it!! We also made friends with their cute dog.
Saying goodbye to Candace at the airport was hard, knowing it would be another month before I would make my way back to Alaska. After shopping for provisions, I made my way towards Glacier National Park. The camping areas in the park were full, and several campgrounds outside the park were full as well. I stumbled into a nice spot, Lake 5 resort, which also did not have any camp spots. “We have a teepee spot” , the host said. I replied that I didn’t have a teepee, I had a tent. So after checking out the spot, and not wanting to continue my search for a place to sleep, I rented the teepee. I received a modest discount from the host, $70 instead of $83, since I was traveling solo. It was out of my price range, but why not. It was a lovely setting by the lake, children swimming and having a good time, people in lawn chairs relaxing. The teepee sleep was restless though, as there are open areas which allow misquotes to buzz in, which they did. Buzzing in and around my face disrupting my sleep.
I arose at 0430 and got on the road by 0600 to get a campsite across the park in the Many Glaciers area, the most coveted campground. I drove the Going to the sun road to get there. This road goes over Logan pass, which has steep cliffs on one side, and a rock wall on the other. I read tales of people losing their rearview mirrors on this drive. An early start revealed little oncoming traffic, which made the drive less nerve wracking and way more fun. Unfortunately, when I arrived at Many Glacier, I was told the campground booked up, 20 minutes before my arrival. I was given a suggestion by the park ranger to hit another campground just inside the park. When I arrived, that campground had filled up. And so it went, each campground full as I drove over the pass and made my way back to where I started. I was running plans A, B and C through my head, and thought I might be sleeping in a pullout on the side of the road that night (plan D). When I finally reached Apgar, the largest campground in the park, I secured the last available site! It was around 1030, and my serenity had been tested for the first time on my journey.
Glacier currently has a free shuttle service to decrease congestion on the Going to the Sun road. I was happy to find that the shuttle stop was a quick walk from my campsite! I took the shuttle to hike one of the more popular, short hikes in the park, Trail of the Cedars and Avalanche Lake.
The next morning, I arose early and drove all the way back to Many Glaciers, a 2.5 hour drive using the park road. The parking lots were open when I arrived, as I anticipated, but the campground was again full. I took an amazing hike, 2 hikes really as the trail split in two directions after about 3 miles. To the left was the Ptarmigan Tunnel, a hikers tunnel that was built to get to the other side of the mountain! And once you did, the mountains changed to a red hue. Hiking through the tunnel was one of those experiences that didn’t seem real, that you were looking at this landscape through a window of sorts. I also ran into a friendly moose, who forced me to scurry up a shale slide to let him pass. I was happy to oblige.
To the right side of the trail was Iceberg Lake. The lake is in an area that doesn’t get a lot of sun, and icebergs are known to float on the icy waters. Some brave souls were actually taking a dip in the 31 degree water. I know if Candace was with me, she too, would be taking a swim.
My right heel had gotten a soft spot with all the uphill hiking, and I dressed it with a second skin bandage on the trail. Once I arrive back to the parking lot, I treated myself to ice cream, as I usually do. I also paid $6 to take a long shower, and in my haste pulled the bandage off my heel. Not a good idea! My heel had already blistered and I pulled off the skin with the bandage. Ouch! And I have another marathon in a week and a big hike tomorrow. Palm slap to forehead ensued.
The next morning, I decided to take a break from driving. I took the 7 am express shuttle to Logan Pass for my next hike. The bus was at the terminal and I was a few minutes late, but not worried as I knew there would be more shuttles to follow. People around me started running to the shuttle. I arrived walking to the driver asking me if I was single, and I promptly replied “yes” and got the last seat on the bus!! Once arriving at the pass, I opted to take a short hike to Hidden Lake overlook, adding 3 miles to my already long day, but it was worth it. Mountain goats were all over the trail, and several had collars on. I asked the ranger and I was informed that these goats have a lower survival rate as they are feeding in meadows, rather than on the mountain slopes. The collars are so the park staff can track the goats movements when visitors are not in the park.
I now proceeded to the Highland trail, the parks premier hike, and for good reason. The early hike hugs the stone wall with a cliff on the other side, similar to the road. There is even a rubber type rope you can hang onto if necessary.
The trail is the best hike I’ve ever done. Ever single step was beautiful. I saw more mountain goats right on the trail, these guys were collar-less.
I also took the thigh burning side trip to the Grinnell Glacier overlook. Just 0.6 miles, but with 800 feet elevation gain, it was a killer. Hikers on the way down were encouraging me, and I did the same for those hiking up as I was going down. The lookout was the most scenic spot I’ve ever eaten lunch.
The hike takes you to a chalet, that you can rent! There are 12 rooms, and in the main hall, a fireplace to warm your bones in chilly weather. The loop now takes you down 4 miles to an area below the pass, making the shuttle a necessity to complete the hike. It was another 15 mile day, my heel wrapped nicely from the start.
My last morning in Glacier was a great one, making my usual breakfast of bacon, eggs and potatoes, I left camp around 0930. When I made my way to the entrance of the park, the cars were lined up for ¾ of a mile to enter, and they kept coming, one by one, to wait in line. And for good reason, Glacier is a fantastic park! I wish I had more time there, but onward I go!
Stats:
Miles run- 26.2- Missoula Marathon!!
Miles hiked- 39
Wildlife spotted- mountain goats, marmots, deer, moose, snake (unknown type), bighorn sheep
Showers- lost track
Mosquitos- better!