It’s been a while since I’ve written, and I wanted to bring the blog back to tell you all about my adventurous summer! Best place to start is the present, so I’ll let you in on one of my favorite places in Alaska- McCarthy-Kennecott.
I first visited McCarthy back in 2005 when I moved to Anchorage. My plan back then was to stay a year and move back to Seattle. I remember calling my friend Danielle and telling her all about my trip, the awe and wonder I felt. She said to me, “You’re not coming back home, are you?” “I don’t think so,” I replied.
Since, I’ve visited this historical place several times, but more recently on Labor Day Weekends. One of my favorite, and most challenging half marathons, is held there that Saturday each year. It’s a 2 pm start, which allows us Anchorage folk to make the drive.
Candace and I left after work Friday evening and drove about 5 hours to our first stop, Liberty Falls campground. This is a favorite layover for many of us Alaskan’s heading to McCarthy. We arrived at camp around 10 pm in the dark, our midnight sun season coming to an end. We were able to secure a spot up a tiny hill in the woods. Headlamps blaring, we couldn’t bring anything to camp but the tent and sleeping bags. In the morning, we cooked breakfast by the truck.
After a leisurely morning, we made our way to McCarthy, which was another 2-3 hour drive on a rutted 61 mile dirt road. My tundra handled the conditions well, and with several stops, we made it to McCarthy in just over 2 hours.
McCarthy is a town of about 30 year round residents, and feels like the epitome of old time Alaska. There is no road into town, unless you’re a resident and pay the $350 yearly toll charged to use the bridge. Even then, I heard that your first venture into this charming town must be walked. As for the rest of us, you must park outside of town and use the footbridge to get across the rushing river.
Back before the footbridge, locals would use a cable to pull themselves across the river, remnants of that time can be seen along the trail.
Once across, you have several options. Take a shuttle to McCarthy or Kennecott, which I remember paying $1 for back in 2005, now a $5 fee. Candace and I packed our backpacks and walked into town instead, making our way to Ma’s Hotel. We had booked the backpacker’s hotel, but got “upgraded” to one of the main lodges.
In the past, we’d camp outside of town, but Labor Day weekend is a busy time here, so we opted to treat ourselves to a room instead. While the room was tiny for $150/night, we appreciated the warmth and comfort of hot showers.
After walking to town and checking in, I barely had enough time to change into my running gear and eat the muffin I bought on the road the night before. I walked to the race start at the campground, about 1 mile out of town.
The race director’s instructions were pretty laid back, “at the end, take a right, then a left, then another left….” I couldn’t help but laugh. This was my 3rd year running this race, so I had a clue as to where to go.
I ran hard, and I still don’t know my finish time or place. This laid back race doesn’t have clocks at the finish line, nor did I set my watch. One of my favorite parts was running up the wagon road to Kennecott, passing an old graveyard along the way. Some of the workers of the mine were laid to rest here, those who couldn’t afford to be brought back to their home towns.
Another favorite spot of the course is a place you would not normally visit when exploring the mine, a view from above the great structures!
At the race end, there is little fanfare, but great comradery! Several runners I met had recognized me from races in Anchorage, and vise versa. The reason this is one of my favorite events, is because of the free spaghetti dinner afterwards. The sauce is made with local greens and spices from the organization’s garden. The family style meal is a time to connect with locals and visitors alike.
The next day, we retrieved our bikes from the truck and rode 5 miles to the historic Kennecott mines. An old copper mine abandoned in the 1930s is now Wrangell-St Elias National Park.
Kennecott became a ghost town back then when the last train left town. Some of the buildings have been restored, and you can get a glimpse of life back then by meandering around.
The old concentration mill is a highlight of anyone’s visit, and stuff travel brochures are made of.
You can even tour the inside of the mill, which we did several years ago and I would recommend! When the town was abandoned, people just up and left, leaving dishes on the table. This scene inside the powerhouse is a freebie as you walk through town.
The town was painted red, which was the most inexpensive color back then. The only structure that was whitewashed was the old hospital.
Back in the heyday, there were about 400 residents/workers here at the mine. Conditions were tough, and the workers only stayed about 10 months or so, made their money and left.
Continuing our walk through town, the hiking trail emerged. There were 4 mines that fed Kennecott, now in ruins, and some difficult to hike to. We chose to hike the root glacier trail that day, as that 8 mile hike was the easiest option.
The trail meanders through colorful forest, with the glacier below.
We spotted ice climbers having fun, and others walking on the ice.
We made it to the icefall and ate burritos from “The Potato” that we carried in our packs.
Our return trip was quiet, with few tourists on the trail. We had the place to ourselves to contemplate life here from a time past.
Once we finished, we had a gourmet meal at the hotel’s restaurant. Our desert was actually made out of beets, sweetened by local spices.
I’d like to say we had a good nights sleep that night, but McCarthy gets rowdy during the night, with loud music and people having fun in the middle of nowhere. The bar next door was active with live music and laughter. Candace making fun of the bass guitar sounds the next morning gave us the morning laughter.
I had ridden my bike to the truck the night before, as we now had the make our way back towards home. I was reluctant to bike with a heavy pack, and anticipated the need for a latte on the hike out, so I preferred the walk. Candace, on the other hand, rode her bike out of town, latte free.
Until next time McCarthy!